Jadau Jewelry forms one of the major examples of high skilled craftsmanship that was brought into India by Mughals. Historically speaking, the tradition of Jadau work has been in practice in the states of Rajasthan and Gujarat since the Mughal era. Jadau jewellery is also called engraved jewelry and is unique and a kind in itself. Considered to be a traditional jewelry of India, it is used in many traditional and auspicious occasions, like marriages and festival celebrations.
Though the art was introduced by in India Mughals, Indian craftsmen
made it popular by adding their indigenous skills. In Jadau jewelry,
precious and semi precious stones, gems, crystals and beads are embedded
in gold, which is first melted a bit. When the gold becomes pliable, the
stones are set on it with great precision and artistry. After that, it
is allowed to cool down and the stones and gems get fixed on it without
any adhesive or carvings.
Jadau work is team work, where a group of craftsmen are involved
together. Each craftsman carries out a specific task related to the
jewelry creation. The chiterias make the basic design, ghaarias are
responsible for engraving and making holes, Meenakari or enamelling is
done by the enameller and the goldsmith takes care of the kundan or the
gold. These days, Jadau is done on not just jewelry, but also jewelry
boxes and delicate showpieces.
Uncut diamonds called polki or vilandi are used as the central stone.
Meenakari or art work done at the back of the jewel is purely for
beautifying purposes. Highest care and attention is given towards the
detail on every piece that the master craftsman creates. The stone
setters first set the stone in silver foil, then fuse with a finishing
of pure gold.