Chikankari is a very delicate and intricate shadow
work type of embroidery. Initially, the embroidery was done using white
yarn, on colorless muslins known as tanzeb. However, today, georgette,
chiffon, cotton and other fine fabrics are also being used. From being
an embellishment used primarily for decorating clothes, Chikankari
embroidery work of India has now spread to cushion covers, pillow
covers, table linen and so on.
There are different explanations behind the evolution of the term
Chikankari. As per one version, the word Chikankari has been derived
from a Persian word Chakin or Chakeen, which means creating delicate
patterns on a fabric. According to others, it may be a distorted version
of Chikeen or Siquin, a coin valuing Rs 4 for which the work was sold.
Yet another explanation ascribes the term to the East Bengal language,
in which Chikan meant fine.
History of Chikankari
We find references to Indian Chikan work as early as the 3rd century
BC. Megasthenes, a Greek traveler, has mentioned the use of flowered
muslins by Indians. There are different versions as to the origin of
Chikankari embroidery work in India. It is said that a traveler, who was
passing through a village in Lucknow, stopped and requested a poor
peasant for water. Delighted at the hospitality of the peasant, the
traveler taught him the art of Chikankari, which would ensure that he
would never remain hungry in life. Lucknow city is the most renowned
place for Chikankari work. Another explanation credits Noorjahan, the
queen of Emperor Jahangir, with the introduction of the Chikankari
embroidery work in India.
Method of Chikankari Embroidery Work
The stitches used in Chikan Kari work of Lucknow are basically of three
categories, namely
